DOs and DON’Ts in Italy

by Jessica on August 1, 2011

by | August 1st, 2011  

Writing an Italy travel guide means being the recipient of lots of Italy travel questions. Most of them can be boiled down to one simple thing, regardless of topic:

What should I do?

When I was asked, therefore, to write up some Italy DOs and DON’Ts for a World Nomads blogging project (explained at the bottom of the page), I immediately said yes.

I’m opinionated, and routinely pass on advice to readers about their Italy plans, but I always try to leave the final decisions up to the traveler. I’m not generally a fan of words like “should,” so although I have my own personal DOs and DON’Ts when it comes to Italy I tend to offer them with caveats – which is what I did here.

I couldn’t help it.

Here, then, are four Jessica-on-her-soapbox Italy DON’Ts followed by one very big Italy DO.

Italy DON’Ts

Don’t follow the well-worn tourist trail and then claim there’s no off-the-beaten-path in Italy.

This is not me telling you to skip the popular cities. This is me telling you that if you go to only the popular cities then I don’t want to hear you complaining about tourist crowds. That kind of thing always makes me cranky.

Geographically speaking, Italy may take up a fraction of the world’s land mass – but the vast majority of the country remains essentially ignored by most tourists. Check off the big-deal sights if that’s part of your goal, but then – if you’re looking for a dose of real life – get your nose out of the guidebook and look instead at a map. See that town shown on the map, the one that’s not listed in your guidebook? Go there.

Italy rewards those who follow their nose, who duck down squirrelly back lanes, who travel without checklists. Sure, you’ll have a great trip if you see the popular cities – they’re popular for a reason, after all – but you’ll give yourself a far better chance of experiencing the magic of Italy if you give in to the possibility of serendipity.

>> Wanna know what part of Italy most travelers skip, but where most of the bargains are? Southern Italy.

Don’t eat in restaurants with menus translated into 14 languages.

Every time I hear about someone visiting Italy who complains that the food isn’t as good as it is back home at the Olive Garden, a little part of me dies inside.

Italians take food seriously, so there’s no reason for you to do any differently during your trip. But there are some in Italy (as is the case anywhere) who are happy to take advantage of people who don’t know any better by serving sub-par food and charging a fortune for it. Restaurants like this are most often found in super-touristy parts of popular cities, and although this isn’t always true you can almost always spot them because their menus are on display out front, translated into seven thousand languages.

Or, y’know, a lot of languages.

You don’t have to speak Italian to eat well in Italy, you just have to be curious. Wander through a street market to see what produce or fish looks freshest, note what it’s called, and then you know what the local in-season specialty is to look for on the menu at lunch or dinner. Do a modicum of research before you leave to find out what dishes a city or region is famous for, and you’ll eat your way to understanding the culture. Bring a menu decoder or a little phrasebook along to help you figure out what’s on that Italian-only menu. And always go into a restaurant with a smile and a sense of adventure – friendly waiters love telling customers what’s good.

Finally, repeat after me: Olive Garden is not Italian food. If you like Olive Garden, that’s fine. (I suppose.) Just don’t compare it to the food you’ll get in Italy. Please.

>> Learn more about Italian food, including why there’s no spaghetti and meatballs on the menu.

Don’t say “ciao” to everyone you meet.

Italian is one of those glorious languages that’s a pleasure to listen to, but it also gives us all a false sense of security. See, we think we can get by simply adding a vowel to the end of English words – or assume that because we regularly order things like “venti” drinks at Starbucks we know a few things about Italian.

Reality check: you might know words like “spaghetti” and “biscotti,” but don’t get too comfortable.

As I said above, you don’t have to speak Italian to travel in Italy. You can get by just fine with a few polite words and a phrasebook. Outside the touristy cities, however, you’ll find most people don’t speak any English at all – or are reluctant to use what words they know. Italians are, almost to a person, incredibly pleased with travelers who attempt to speak their language, so don’t be shy. But make sure you’re using the right niceties – saying “ciao,” for instance, isn’t something you want to do all the time. It’s a word we’re incredibly familiar with, and its origins are such that some (especially older generations) consider it impolite.

So while you shouldn’t assume everyone understands English, or let your nerves keep you from speaking a few Italian lines from your phrasebook, remember you’re an unofficial ambassador for your country. Learn how to be polite.

>> Find out why I call Italian the “WYSIWYG” language – and what my favorite Italian swear words are.

Don’t rush.

Of all the possible DON’Ts for this list, I’ll wager this is the one that’s ignored most often. It’s easy to understand why, too. So many travelers I talk to have a tiny amount of vacation time (thanks so much, American culture) that they feel compelled to cram as much as physically possible into their two weeks (if that), and when I suggest that they cut out a destination or two and spend more time in the other places they’re already visiting they balk.

I get it. I do. And I’m still going to give out the same advice.

Remember what I said earlier about there being rewards for people who throw away the checklist? I’m not trying to be woo-woo here, I genuinely believe that you will enjoy your trip more if you slow down and leave a little room in your itinerary for something unexpected to happen. Think of the dinner parties you’ll go to in the months following your trip, where people ask what you did in Italy – instead of rattling off the same list of places that everyone goes, you’ll be able to tell a story of the pretty little town you visited on a day trip because it wasn’t in the guidebook, or the prosciutto festival you heard about and went out of your way to attend, or the wrong turn that led to the fabulous trattoria that led to a jovial hand-signal conversation with the owner that led to an extra-large helping of dessert.

The point is that packing your days from end to end with stuff to do before you even land in the country is the pathway to unhappiness. Treat each place – in Italy and elsewhere – as if you’ll come back someday to explore further (whether you do or not isn’t the point). Tick off the major things on your I absolutely have to see this or I’ll go home disappointed list, and then let fate handle the rest of the trip planning for you. You’ll enjoy your trip – and Italy – more as a result.

>> Get my tips for planning the perfect Italy itinerary, no matter where you’re going or for how long you’ll be in the country.

Italy DOs

Do your own trip, your way, no matter what anyone else says. Including me.

Y’know what? This is your holiday we’re talking about here, not mine.

I will continue to get questions about Italy trip planning, and I’ll continue to dole out answers. I’d also like to think that if my answer didn’t suit you, you’d say, “Yeah, piss off” – nicely, of course – and go right on planning your trip your way.

I like that kind of moxie.

I am very much a “teach a traveler to fish” sort of person – I prefer to give you the tools to figure out the answers to your questions rather than giving you the answers directly. If that means you come to a different conclusion than I would, that’s fantastic. We can’t all take the same vacation. That would be boring.

Don’t let anyone bully you into taking the trip they want to take. Listening to someone’s advice doesn’t mean you have to follow it.

In other words, read my tips and suggestions throughout the WhyGo Italy site, ask me questions when you don’t find what you’re looking for, and if you don’t like my answers then please ignore me and plan your trip however you’d like.

The ‘Blog your Backyard’ Project

Share your local expertise and join the Blog your Backyard project! Become an ambassador for your country (home or adopted) by sharing your experiences and tips with other travelers. Submit your entries starting August 8th on WorldNomads.com for a chance to win one of 20 awesome excursions with Urban Adventures. Plus, if you want to share more of your local expertise or get answers to all of your travel questions, download the FREE ‘Ask A Nomad’ iPad app.

photos, top to bottom, by: Dimitri N., Chris Yunker, thepinkpeppercorn, zoonabar, ciccioetneo, Pacopus


{ 34 comments… read them below or add one }

Richard Lewis September 4, 2011 at 4:59 am
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You are fabulous! I have been so some places in Italy while on a Mediterranean cruize. I want to go back so badly – this article has lit the fire in my belly. Now I want to visit all their nude beaches! I spent this summer in Vancouver at their famous “Wreck Beach”, (clothing optional). What a summer – what a tan!

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Mary-Lee Sanders September 6, 2011 at 2:21 pm
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Hello Jessica,
I’ve been reading your blog and I love all the tips you give on Italy. I’m a big traveler myself; I worked as a tour guide for 15 years based in various countries around the world. If I had any advice to give to travelers this would be it;

1. Don’t sweat the small stuff, things can go wrong. You wouldn’t believe the amount of folks I’ve seen RUIN their vacation because they lost their bag or didn’t get a wake-up call. Yes it’s frustrating but it’s not the end of the world. Find a solution and move on. Let it go!

2. Don’t schedule yourself so tight that you get home more tired then when you left. You will NEVER have enough time to see everything there is to see in any country, so prioritize and take time to relax, do some people watching, strolling and getting lost. The most memorable experiences I’ve had happened accidentally…like the time the fisherman in Isla Mujeres asked if I would be around a while, to which I answer sure, not quite knowing why? About an hour later, he returned with fresh shrimp and proceeded to cook it in front of us. It’s the best tasting shrimp I’ve ever had in my life!

3. Don’t denigrate anyone’s ideas or way of living, that’s the pleasure of discovering various cultures. I remember the Tahitians would say: I don’t understand you tourists… You spend all day baking on a beach and yet you want to sleep in refrigerators (meaning A/C) ? What could I answer to that, other than what’s logical to us is not always logical to others.

4. Don’t assume that because you’re on vacation, that everything is permitted…like getting drunk in public, trying to get something for nothing, being overly familiar with folks you don’t know, yelling at a table or for that matter asking intimate questions. Would you believe that a tourist once asked me if I was allowed to sleep with the tourist? I was stunned, I could only answer that? – Yes I was but so far had resisted: of course if George Clooney showed up, all bets where off.

Where only here for a short time, enjoy!

Talk about impulsive, I booked last week and I’m off to Italy on Thursday this week. Air’s booked; hotels are booked the rest we’ll see when we get there. Arrivaderchi !

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Jessica September 6, 2011 at 2:52 pm
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Great tips, Mary-Lee – and have a great trip!

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Joe Goenaga September 17, 2011 at 12:09 pm
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Dear Jessica,

We are leaving on a cruise out of Civitavecchia on Sunday Oct 2. We fly into Rome on an overnight flight arriving in Rome on Saturday Oct 1st. We have already booked a hotel for that Saturday night in Civitavecchia . My only question is: I assume we have to get some kind of transport from the airport in Rome to the train station where we will catch a train to Civitavecchia. Can you explain this whole procedure in greater detail?

Thank-you,
Joe

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Jessica September 19, 2011 at 4:44 pm
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In this article, there’s a section about how to get to the Civitavecchia cruise port from Fiumicino Airport (FCO):
http://www.italylogue.com/planning-a-trip/rome-cruise-terminal-where-it-is-how-to-get-there.html

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sylvia thomas October 14, 2011 at 4:46 pm
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I am getting ready to go on my third trip to Italy. This time I am bringing my daughter. This time we will fly into venice, and fly out of pisa. We are planning our trip by ear. Taking the train to many little villages. I do plan on venice. florence and the cinque terre. I find it hard to get lost in italy. If we do it would just be another adventure.

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Jessica October 17, 2011 at 1:34 pm
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Have a wonderful trip!

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Athena October 18, 2011 at 3:52 pm
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After a long flight + another from London, we arrived last month in Rome. It took a few days for our bodies to catch up with the time zone. Also, as vegetarians, we found that it would not work to have so much pizza and pasta, which are based on white flour, which we rarely eat. An Italian doctor told me to drink more olive oil. I had to mostly eat salad, which was very good and fresh, and forgo the bread and pasta and pizza. Be sure to stock up on prunes and other fruits. There are two Chinese restaurants in Venice. Italy is not very vegan friendly. If you compromise and eat a little fish, ask if they remove the heads, tails, skin, and shells. The panforte (medieval bread recipe) in Siena is very good. Remember, waiters in Europe consider it rude to bring you your bill until you ask for it. You often do not get their attention: Service charge is often included on the bill, as is cover charge for napkins and table cloth. Try to go to Italy when the weather is cooler. It can get hot. Always carry water because you will be walking. A very intense country with a deep history. Pompeii was fascinating– so large!

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Jessica October 24, 2011 at 5:26 pm
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Thanks so much for the comment, Athena! I’m sorry you didn’t see my post about going to Italy as a vegetarian, that might have given you a few more options than salad.

http://www.italylogue.com/food-drink/special-diets-food-allergies-italy-travel.html

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Enzo October 22, 2011 at 4:52 am
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Hi Jessica,

Myself and a friend are visiting Milan on the 5th of Novemver for 4 days, we would like to watch a game at San Siro Stadium on the 6th, is it possible to buy tickets directly from teh stadium?

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Jessica October 24, 2011 at 5:15 pm
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Here’s my article about seeing a game at the San Siro – it’s from years ago, but the info about buying tickets is still good:
http://www.italylogue.com/things-to-do/seeing-an-italian-football-match-at-san-siro-in-milan.html

This series of articles has travel-specific info for the San Siro, too:
http://travel.theoffside.com/italy/san-siro-stadio-giuseppe-meazza

Have fun!

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Mark Hogan October 24, 2011 at 2:54 pm
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Hi jessica,
Is it ok to order a Jack daniels/ coke at a dinner meal or is that a type of drink i need to go to the bar and drink?

grazie!
Mark Lattanzi Hogan

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Jessica October 24, 2011 at 5:05 pm
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I’ve never seen cocktails served with dinner in Italy; they’re more of a pre-dinner thing (at “aperitivo”) or possibly after dinner. Drinks for during the meal are almost always water, wine, or beer. Also note that the word “bar” in Italian refers to the kind of place where you’ll get your coffee in the morning – some of these places will turn into the kinds of bars that serve cocktails/wine in the evenings, but not always.

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Nan @ LivingVenice October 28, 2011 at 8:48 am
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Don’t walk and eat.

Or should I say, per favore, don’t walk and eat. ;)

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Keane December 1, 2011 at 3:46 pm
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I love this. I’m planning on spending a month in Rome next May as a sort of hey-I’m-30-now-happy-birthday-kiddo present to myself. Initially I thought of backpacking for a month to hit up all the places I missed during my first trip in Italy, but then I decided to just focus on one city and REALLY get to know it (and maybe take a trip out to other cities like Naples for short trips).

I totally agree with what you wrote: “Treat each place – in Italy and elsewhere – as if you’ll come back someday to explore further.” I tell this to everyone… life is so long that we have plenty of opportunities to travel again.

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Stephen January 7, 2012 at 5:14 pm
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Hi Jessica.
Love your no bull do’s and don’ts. I’m Australian and are planning a European campervan trip early this year and I hate tourist sites and love the “off the beaten track” experience.
Question: In Australia, motorhomes are everywhere and accepted modes of transport. In the Italian countryside, will we be ostricised for having such a vehicle and therefore miss out on the “real” Italy?
Thanks in advance

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Jessica January 12, 2012 at 4:58 pm
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I don’t think you’ll be ostracized, no – Italians are used to Europeans traveling by campervan through the continent, even if they don’t tend to travel that way. Using a campervan/motorhome to get around within cities, however, will be a big challenge – all those narrow lanes will be tough to navigate. Once you’re in one place for awhile, I’d say either rent a car to get around or plan to use public transportation.

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Kathy January 8, 2012 at 8:05 am
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Hi Jessica,
I love all the comments on your blog and they are helping me out. I am flying into Rome mid April and I’ve planned 4 days for Rome and the Vatican. I want to go to Assisi and from there I would love to experience the small towns and hill/mountain towns and churches for a day or two. This is my first really big trip and I’m finding it difficult to figure out where I’m going as I have 5 weeks to go from Rome to Ireland. Thanks for any suggestions you can offer…

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Jessica January 12, 2012 at 5:02 pm
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I think if you want to use Assisi as a home base for a few days you can take day trips into the countryside of Umbria (and probably Tuscany, too) to see some of those hilltowns. Any town with a train station will be easy to reach, but even without a train station most towns have bus service on a semi-regular basis, so you’d just have to check at the bus station in Assisi to find out the schedule. If you plan to spend most of your exploring time in Umbria, I’d recommend my friend Rebecca’s list of Umbria activities – she lives near Assisi, and is an expert on the local area: http://www.brigolante.com/activities/

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Angie January 10, 2012 at 10:46 am
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My daughter is going on a trip to Italy with school in April of this year. She will be gone for twelve days. She is responsible for food and items she wishes to purchase. I was wondering how much you would recommend I send for for such a trip. She is sixteen and frugal but I want her to have a great adventure. I have never been overseas and I don’t have a clue what would be a good amount.

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Jessica January 12, 2012 at 5:08 pm
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I think to be on the safe side, it would be good if your daughter had some kind of pre-paid credit card instead of a bunch of cash – something that you could add money to from home if she needed more. Travelex makes one that has the “chip and PIN” technology most common in Europe, and it requires a PIN number to use: http://www.travelex.com/US/Products/Cash-Passport/ (It doesn’t look like that one lets you add money along the way, now that I look at it, but otherwise it sounds like a cool idea – I’ve not used it myself.) You might check with your bank to find out if they have something like this that might work.

Regarding how much to send with her, that’s a really hard question to answer – it varies so greatly depending on the person. I tried to give travelers a general idea of the costs of an Italy trip in this article about how to budget for Italy: http://www.italylogue.com/planning-a-trip/how-to-budget-for-an-italy-trip.html

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Robin Chalkley January 14, 2012 at 9:00 pm
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Really glad I found your blog. I’m trying to learn some Italian to communicate, but also because I think it’s a beautiful language. Looking forward to absorbing your tips before making my trip.

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Susan January 22, 2012 at 7:57 pm
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I won a vacation to Italy and the contest host is flying us to Florence in mid-April; we will have 5 nights on our own before we need to meet the host in Verona (after 1 night there) for a journey to Trentino (1 night) capped by 2 nights in Venice before the flight home. Question: for our 5 nights at the start of the trip (before traveling to Verona), we have tentatively planned to stay 4 in Florence and 1 in Bologna. We wish we had some way to work in Rome & a day trip to Pompeii followed by the Amalfi Coast, especially since we will probably never be able to make it to Italy again — but that just doesn’t seem feasible as we truly don’t like to rush or be in a different hotel every night, and we we spend so much time doubling back. Would you suggest that we “substitute” a day trip to Cinque Terre instead of the Amalfi Coast, despite the mudslides last October? And if you could only do one full day trip from Florence, visiting other towns in the Tuscany region, which would they be?

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Jessica January 23, 2012 at 3:50 pm
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Congratulations on winning that trip! :)

If you don’t want to be rushed and you’re more interested in Florence/Tuscany than in Rome, then your plan is a good one. There are plenty of amazing day trip options from Florence – Pisa and Siena are arguably the most popular, but San Gimignano and Lucca are also great options. Here’s my article on day trips from Florence:
http://www.italylogue.com/planning-a-trip/day-trips-from-florence.html

I agree that trying to squeeze Rome, Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, Florence, AND Bologna into 5 days is nigh unto impossible (and definitely not advised). If you’re looking for a more coastal community to add to your itinerary, hence the Amalfi Coast/Cinque Terre questions, you might look at the other side of the peninsula – since you’ll be over there anyway. You could visit Rimini (a world-famous seaside resort town) between Florence and Bologna. There’s no telling what the weather will be like in mid-April there, but at least it would give you some of the beach town vibe.

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Emad January 31, 2012 at 9:45 am
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Hi Jessica
I am planning to fly to Italy between 21 mar and 29 mar and it’s my first time there honestly I am not sure what is the best leaves to go in such short period. I am thinking to go to Rome then to Milan for snooping may be
What do you think?

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Jessica January 31, 2012 at 2:43 pm
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With roughly one week to spend in Italy, here are some suggested itineraries you can consider:
http://www.italylogue.com/planning-a-trip/1-week-italy-itinerary-options-planning-tips.html

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Mike Scrima January 31, 2012 at 8:59 pm
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Jessica,

Awesome blog. I got several ideas from just reading your comments to others going to Italy. Going to Rome on a company trip 4/19/12. Will be there for four days but will be extending my trip with my wife. My grandparents came from Avalleno and we wanted to try and go there. I understand it is relatively close to Naples. Any suggestions on how to travel to Naples/Avalleno? Any information would be helpful. Thanks.

Mike

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Jessica February 2, 2012 at 2:53 pm
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First off, here’s my Naples travel guide:
http://www.italylogue.com/naples

Second, I think you might mean Avellino? I couldn’t find a town in Italy called Avalleno. Avellino is a province and city in the Campania region, so I’m guessing that’s what you’re looking for:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avellino

The train trip from Naples to Avellino is 2.5-4 hours depending on the train you take. You can look up train schedules for the journey here:
http://www.italylogue.com/train

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Francis Koh February 4, 2012 at 5:40 am
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Your blog is really informative.

Out of curiosity, I have seen some other blogs asking us to be a bit adventurous and walk into some small lanes / street where the locals are and out of the tourist sites….is it safe to walk even in the evening like 21.00 hrs onwards?

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angela phillips February 5, 2012 at 2:30 am
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Hi Francis,
I found it was fine walking around the small lanes and streets even at 11pm at night although this was in the smaller towns, I probably wouldn’t do it around the big cities like Rome especially around the train stations as there can be some undesirable people in that area. In saying that take the same precautions as you would at home.

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Jessica February 14, 2012 at 12:11 pm
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I agree, you should trust your instincts – use the same caution you would in any city/town you don’t know well. It depends a bit on where you are, too, what I’d recommend. I feel more comfortable walking aimlessly when I’m alone in Milan, for instance, than I do in Naples. I recently wrote a series of articles on travel safety tips for Italy which you might find helpful:
http://www.italylogue.com/planning-a-trip/travel-safety-in-italy.html

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angela phillips February 5, 2012 at 2:25 am
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Jessica,
Loved the blog, I have already booked my 3rd trip to Italy this September, this time playing tour guide and translator for my parents who have never been before. I have scheduled in a few days in each of the popular cities such as Venice, Florence and Rome but am also taking them out to Volterra for a week so they can see the beautiful small towns in Tuscany and also to Sorrento for 10 days. I prefer the tiny out of the way towns rather than the big cities and i can’t wait to catch up with the friends I made while I was studying over there.

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Sandi Zietkiewicz February 12, 2012 at 12:13 pm
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Hi Jessica, 3 girlfriends and I are going to Italy in May. Planning 2 nights in Florence, then driving to San Gigmignano, spending 4 nights there traveling around the area. Then planning to drive down to Sorrento drop off the car, and also spending 4 nights there. We plan to do day trips in the area. How long will it take to drive from San Gigmignano to Sorrento? Planned to go to Sienna, Lucca, and what are your other favorites in Tuscany? Do you have a book ‘Why Go Italy’? Thanks for all the information on your site.
Sandi from South Africa

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Jessica February 14, 2012 at 11:31 am
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Here’s my overall Tuscany guide, which may help:
http://www.italylogue.com/tuscany

And also my guide to driving in Italy, which includes a link to my favorite website (Via Michelin) for getting drive time & cost information for Italy:
http://www.italylogue.com/featured-articles/driving-in-italy.html

I don’t have a book, all the information I’ve written is here on the WhyGo Italy website.

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