Southern Italy

Most tourists to Italy spend all their time in Northern Italy, never venturing further south than Rome. There are several legitimate reasons for this, but anyone who wants to get off the beaten path in Italy will be hard-pressed to do it in Northern Italy. To get away from the tourists, you’ve got to head south. The regions that make up Southern Italy make up a little less than half of Italy’s total land mass, but they hold a fraction of the population - and even fewer visitors.

Why Southern Italy Isn’t On Most Tourists’ Radar Screens
Southern Italy has historically always lagged behind the country’s northern half in terms of things like literacy, economic advancement, and attracting outside investment. While the city-states in the north were prospering the south focused entirely on one kingdom - the one which grew up around Naples. Because the south was more traditionally agricultural and less reliant on trade, the parts of Southern Italy which were further from Naples were cut off from the same kind of economic growth that city-states which saw lots of incoming merchants experienced.

Today, Southern Italy is commonly referred to as the “Mezzogiorno,” and though the term has perfectly polite origins, it’s considered to be more than a little derogatory in modern Italy. The North-South divide in present-day Italy is very real, and persists even after initiatives in the 20th century aimed at directing proportionally more of the country’s tax revenue to the south. The influx of government subsidies and investment has helped, but some argue that they have also prevented Southern Italy from making strides on its own.

The cultural influences you’ll see in Southern Italy are slightly different than the ones you’ll recognize in Northern Italy. For instance, Sicily is home to several important Greek ruins, as it was home to a large Greek settlement dating back to the 8th century B.C.E. The south is also where you’re more likely to see influences from Northern Africa.

There is occasionally talk of splitting Italy into two countries, although the motivations are completely different - in the north, some are tired of working hard to make money that then just gets sent south, and in the south some are tired of feeling like the redheaded stepchild. The reality is that the two halves of Italy need one another, so the likelihood of them splitting is very slim.

Why Southern Italy Should Be On Your Radar Screen
That little (and I do mean little) history lesson there isn’t meant to make you shy away from visiting Southern Italy - on the contrary, it’s to point out that while travel in Southern Italy may be more challenging than in Northern Italy, where the red carpet is laid out for tourists (and translated into seven languages, at that), you’re more apt to see what people are always calling “the real Italy” if you get away from the heavily touristed regions of the north. Plus, the south of Italy is, almost without exception, going to be cheaper to travel in than the north. And that’s good news for any budget traveler.

The south’s historical ties to an agricultural economy are paying off in a big way more recently as agriturismo is growing in popularity, although agriturismo is still more commonly knowin in areas like Tuscany and Umbria. And if you don’t think you can handle “the real Italy” for your entire vacation, never fear - there are several popular and heavily touristed (not to mention expensive!) resort areas in Southern Italy, too. Italy’s two main islands are most often included in with “Southern Italy” as well, although one of them (Sardinia) is right about in the center geographically.

Here are a few tidbits about each of the regions in Southern Italy:

• Abruzzo - The northernmost region in Southern Italy, this is a popular area for people living in Rome to visit when they want to get back to nature, as most of Abruzzo is an easy day-trip from Rome. Fully one-third of the land in this region is either a national or regional park. Abruzzo boasts a good expanse of coastline (and some great beaches and beach towns) along the Adriatic Sea, and includes the cities of Pescara, Chieti, Sulmona and L’Aquila.
• Basilicata - Basilicata occupies the little bit of coastline which is the “instep” of the “boot” that is Italy, and was recently considered Italy’s poorest region. That was until the discovery of oil. As far as tourists are concerned, this is a great region for agriturismo, because it remains one of the least developed parts of the country. There is a tiny coastline along the Tyrrhenian Sea on Italy’s west coast, and a slightly larger coastline on the Gulf of Taranto, but one of the tourism highlights is undoubtedly the Roman and Greek (and older) ruins found throughout the region. The cities of Matera, Metaponto and Potenza are a few of the cities worth visiting in Basilicata.
• Calabria - The “toe” of Italy’s “boot” is almost entirely bordered by water, so is understandably famous for its beaches; but this region is primarily mountainous and boasts some great skiing in the winter. Calabria’s varied natural landscapes make it an outdoors enthusiast’s wonderland, not least because much of it is unspoiled by human development. Many of the region’s cities and towns are also worth visiting, including Reggio Calabria (which is just across from the island of Sicily), Tropea, Nicotera, Cosenza and Gerace.
• Campania - This is the region most travelers who venture south of Rome are going to visit, because it’s where many of the most famous sights and cities in Southern Italy are located. Campania is where you’ll find Naples, the Sorrento Peninsula, the Amalfi Coast, the Roman ruins at Pompeii and Herculaneum, the Greek ruins at Cumae and Paestum, and the famous little islands of Capri and Ischia.
• Molise - Italy’s second-smallest region, Molise is also where you’re likely to see the smallest number of foreign tourists. There is a small section of coastline along the Adriatic Sea which attracts visitors, but agriculture is still the primary industry in Molise. Some of the cities worth visiting are Campobasso, Termoli and Larino.
• Puglia - Sometimes known in English as “Apulia,” this region makes up the “heel” of Italy’s “boot.” It is home to some fantastic beaches, both on the Adriatic Sea in the east and the Gulf of Taranto in the south. Historically, it was primarily an agricultural region, but more recently tourism is becoming a big source of income for Puglia. The area is full of historic sights and cities, including Alberobello, Lecce, Salento, Gallipoli, and Taranto.
• Sardinia - Called “Sardegna” in Italian, this island is arguably the most remote and least visited region in Italy; it’s actually closer to France (Corsica) than Italy. Sardinia is primarily mountainous, and is well-loved for its natural attractions (including its miles of beautiful beaches). The Costa Smerelda is particularly popular with visitors, and the cities of Olbia, Bosa, Alghero, and Cagliari are also worth a visit. Getting around Sardinia using the train can be very slow-going, so you may consider renting a car for this portion of your trip.
• Sicily - Called “Sicilia” in Italian, this is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea; it appears that it’s being kicked off the “toe” of Italy’s “boot.” Sicily is home to many important Greek and Roman ruins as well as some extraordinary beach resorts. Some of Sicily’s most popular sights and cities are Palermo, Siracusa, Taormina, Agrigento, and Trapani.

In closing, I want to quote one of my favorite guidebook writers, Rick Steves, who has this to say about Southern Italy (emphasis mine):

If you like Italy as far south as Rome, go further south. It gets better. If Italy is getting on your nerves by the time you get to Rome, think twice about going further. Italy intensifies as you plunge deeper.

I think that’s a beautiful way of putting it - Northern Italy is a great sampler plate, and Southern Italy is Italy on steroids. Everything you felt in Northern Italy will be amplified in Southern Italy, so while it’s not a trip to be taken without consideration, it’s a trip you’ll remember forever.

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